Category Archives: Cosmetic Formulating

Formulate and Make Natural Shampoo Part 3


Formulate and Make Natural Shampoo

There are many considerations to formulate and make natural shampoo. First, you need to determine the type of shampoo you want to formulate I covered this in Part 1. Next, decide on the surfactant system best for the type of shampoo, review In Part 2.Here are some other considerations formulating natural shampoo.

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How to Formulate and Make Natural Shampoo: Part 1

How To Formulate and Make Natural Shampoo: Part 1
This series is on how to formulate and make natural shampoo. This is part 1 of 3. To formulate and make a natural shampoo requires knowledge of the types of shampoos on the market, understanding the chemistry of surfactants and their purpose and other ingredients to develop a natural shampoo that cleanses the hair but also does not strip the hair.

Part 1 Types of Shampoo

Part 2  Surfactants for Natural Shampoo

Part 3 Formulate and Make Natural Shampoo


Purpose of Shampoo
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Dragon’s Blood Beauty Balm by Plant-Based Formulator Joan Morais

Dragon's Blood Beauty Balm developed by Cosmetic Formulator Joan Morais

Dragon’s Blood Beauty Balm ~ Awaken The Female Dragon by Plant-Based Formulator Joan Morais

I developed this “Dragon’s Blood Beauty Balm ~ Awaken The Female Dragon”, first from the inspiration from the magical Dragon Blood Tree and second because of the traditional medicinal and skin care uses. I immediately fell under the spell of this mystic tree when I discovered the dragon’s blood tree on an island of the Azores Islands. I saw the dragon tree for the first time on the Island of Pico. I was instantly mesmerized and captivated by the dragon’s blood tree.

Plant-Based Cosmetic Formulator Joan Morais and the Dragon’s Blood Tree – Become a Plant-Based Cosmetic Formulator

Dragon’s Blood Tree
The dragon’s blood tree is also called the dragon tree and drago, Dracaena draco. The tree’s resin looks like blood because it is transparent and vibrant red. The name Dracaena comes from the Greek word ‘dracaena’ and means Female Dragon. The resin has been used as a dye and for medicinal purposes and in medicinal products for centuries. This subtropical tree is native to the Canary Islands, Madeira, Cape Verde and western Morocco and brought to the Azores. The dragon tree is known to live a very long time. The oldest tree is possibly be 400 – 1000 years old. It is hard to determine the age since dracaenas are monocotyledons and don’t have rings to count the years.

Dragon’s Blood Tree Medicinal Uses
According to Dragon’s blood: Botany, chemistry and therapeutic uses  dragon’s blood resin has been traditionally used as a “haemostatic, antidiarrhetic, antiulcer, antimicrobial, antiviral, wound healing, antitumor, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant………and for skin disorders such as eczema.”

Become A Plant-Based Cosmetic Formulator
As a plant-based cosmetic formulator I thrive in nature. Nature inspires and enlightens me with its wisdom, healing powers, vibrancy, radiance and rainbow of plant colors into my plant-based formulations. This Dragon’s Blood Beauty Balm ~ Awaken The Female Dragon is unique to me and brands me as a plant-based formulator. In my Natural Professional Skin Care and Hair Care Product Making Courses, I share so many formulations that can easily be customized and a new creation like my Dragon’s Blood Beauty Balm can be developed into a one-of-a-kind whole beauty product by you. You can become a Plant-Based Cosmetic Formulator! Being a plant-based cosmetic formulator and instructor brings me such fulfillment and joy. My biggest passion is to share this with my students and assist my students to be successful and to soar.

Dragon’s Blood Tree on the Island of Pico, Azores – Joan Morais

The Mystic and Magical Dragon Tree ~ Female Dragon

Learn the power and the energy
The language of the craters the signs
Of the dragon tree and its magic alchemy
Or the writing of stone and metals
-Manuel Alegre (Portuguese Poet)

Dragon’s Blood Tree on the Island of Pico, Azores – Joan Morais

Aprender os poderes e a energia
A língua das crateras os sinais
Do dragoeiro e sua magíca
alquimia
Ou a escrita da pedra e dos metais
-Manuel Alegre

cosmetic formulation testing

Cosmetic Formulating Blog Series | Testing the Formula

Cosmetic Formulating Blog Series | Testing the Formula

Now that we went over some of the basics of cosmetic formulating and how to build the formula, let’s go over testing the formula. Cosmetic formulation testing is an important step before going to market with your final product.

Adjusting the Formula

It is rare that you will have the exact product you want on your first try. Formulating is all about tweaking your formula till you get it exactly how you want it. It takes a lot of patience. Don’t get discouraged if it is not turning out how you want, as it may just take a little tweak to get it exactly where you want it!

When making changes to the formula, it is important you only make one adjustment at a time. It can be tempting to make several changes at once, but then you will not know which adjustment produced what kind of change. It is also important to allow time for the formulation to settle. Sometimes scents can take time to evolve and waxes to firm up.

pH Testing

pH stands for “potential for hydrogen” and is the system to measure acid and alkaline. Neutral pH is 7, anything below 7 is acidic and anything above 7 is alkaline. Water has a neutral pH. The more acidic or alkaline a product is, the more it will cause irritation to the skin. Generally the pH level for body and skin care products should be between 4.5- 6.0 and for hair care products between 4.0- 6.0.

There are a couple different ways one can test for pH. There are pH strips that are easy to use. The strips will give a range instead of the exact pH. A pH meter on the other hand will give you the exact pH and is more accurate. You will likely need to adjust the pH of your product and you can do this with natural ingredients.

Sample Labeling

It is important for you to keep excellent records and label your sample with several key information. This includes the date it was made, type of product, pH, and a reference number that links to the formulation in your lab notebook to refer to for more detailed information. That way you can return to your sample over the next several months to test its stability. You should test the pH, notice the scent and how it has evolved, and if there has been any separation or discoloration.

Testing for Bacteria, Yeast and Mold

Any product that contains water will need to be tested for bacteria, yeast and mold. There are different ways  to test your product.

Plate counts test if there is bacteria, yeast and mold in your sample. It will not tell you how long your preservation system will be effective.

Challenge testing is performed at at one month or two months. Millions of bacteria, yeast and mold will be injected into the product and it will determine if your preservation system is effective.

Stability Testing will test how your product reacts to very hot and cold temperatures.

Testing and Preservation Resources

It is very important to test your product and not only for the stability of the skin or hair care product, but also for bacteria, yeast and mold, and if the preservation system is effective. At Joan Morais Naturals we provide extensive information on testing and preserving your body and hair care products naturally and effectively in our professional product making courses. For information on these courses check out the following:

Professional Natural Skin Care Product Making Course

Professional Natural Hair Care Product Making Course

formula

Cosmetic Formulating Blog Series | Building the Formula

Cosmetic Formulating Blog Series | Building the Formula

In our last blog post on Cosmetic Formulating we went over some formulating basics, including what a formula is, whether it will be organic, natural and/or cruelty-free, understanding measurements and synergy of your ingredients. In this blog we will go over how you build the formula.

Factors to Consider

Prior to making your formula, you must consider many factors and get clarity on what kind of product you want to make. Ask yourself the following questions:

  • Who is the consumer for this product? Age, gender, skin type, etc.?
  • What properties do you want in the product? Example- moisturizing, protecting, vitamins, etc.
  • What kind of container are you going to use?
  • How will the product be applied?
  • What color will the formula be once all the ingredients are in?
  • How much will the product cost?
  • What shelf-life will the product have?

Math

To build your formula, you will need to use simple math to create a formulation key. The easiest way is to utilize percentages. Your total formulation will amount to 100%. Then each ingredient will be a percentage of 100. This way you can increase or decrease your amount easily by utilizing the percentage to determine the amounts in grams or ounces of your ingredients. The ingredients in your product will fall into the following categories: water, oil, emulsifiers, and additives. Depending on what kind of product you’re making, each category will have a different percentage range. Experiment with different amounts of each ingredient until you get the end-product you want. This will now be your formulation!

Formulation Resources

As you can see, a lot goes into building the formula, however don’t let that scare you from trying! At Joan Morais Naturals we have a lot of resources to assist you in the process, including additional factors to consider regarding your product, more specific instructions on how to do formulation math, basic ratios of ingredients depending on the product, formulating worksheets, and more!

For more in-depth information on formulating natural skin and hair care products check out our professional product making courses.

Professional Natural Skin Care Product Making Course

Professional Natural Hair Care Product Making Course

These courses are online-based and can be taken anytime and you will have course lifetime access.